Contamination of arts and cultures, between pleating and savoir-faire
It is an apparent simplicity, that of the young and talented Mossi Traoré, but one that actually conceals many intriguing details.
His approach towards classical tailoring eludes definitions and preconceptions, in favor of an integration between arts and cultures that is clearly visible in his conception of fashion.
This is not subversion or a search for the element that unsettles or upsets, but rather a deep conceptual search that aims to find new stylistic contaminations that are never trivial. And he does so by looking at the contemporary art of Lee Bul on the one hand, and the pleating of the masters Issey Miyake and Madame Grès on the other.
The winner of the Pierre Bergé Prize of ANDAM 2020, for Spring Summer 2024 plays with the most iconic pieces of his collections, making the fabric dance with a few, simple touches in a sense of perpetual movement, and giving it a whole new, fresh, modern twist: such as the “pli Grès“, a homage to his idol Madame Grès – on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of her death – developed into three identifiable silhouettes; the button-up skirts enriched with asymmetrical panels and worn over pants or wide jeans; tops constructed as if molded directly to the models’ bodies; the skirt conceived for men, as a reminiscence of the sari, modernized in the use of the zipper and the unpredictability of the structural lines; the shirts with extra long sleeves moderated by elegant and feminine tulip skirts.
We can see the sculptural drapings, perfectly harmonized asymmetries and lengths that offset each other, in a final outcome that invites reflection and gives in the beholder the pleasure of order and balance of diversity.
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