Looking to the future through the lens of the past

An ode to one’s own identity built through time, and a return to the roots; id est, a return to those clothing pieces which have profoundly affected the history of fashion.

That’s how Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have showcased their SS24 collection, to celebrate the 40th anniversary of their illustrious fashion house. Dolce&Gabbana archives have been indisputably made of iconic fashion moments and symbols that even nowadays the youngest generations are able to recognize and associate with the Sicilian brand’s universe. Such as the black lace and sheer layers of chiffon used for shirts and boudoir looks; the waist-tight jackets which emphasize the body shape, as well as the bustier draped on the male’s body enhancing sculpted chests; and again, close-fitting tank tops and sweaters made of tiny ribs; backless vests and tailored coats, the romanticism of a flower pinned on a lapel or embroidered on organza.

What is left is the kind of fashion that disregards temporary trends and social media obsessions, bringing back to light instead the elements which made the key to success for Dolce&Gabbana. “To create fashion means to take on our own responsibilities, are we are so proud when we are able to recognize our aesthetic from an image“, declared the duo at the helm of the house.

Returning to the runway at Milan Fashion Week, Neil Barrett is another designer who goes back to the roots in order to reinvent solutions for dressing, harking back to 1990s Minimalism he pioneered. His collection revolves around the notion of uniform; the workwear suit that Barrett lifts up through noble materials, reinvents in color and reproportions in shape, making it relevant for the present times.
Formality here is attenuated, the fit loosens, the trousers shorten up to the knee, and t-shirts replace shirts under the jacket. Foundational elements are preserved: the obsession for details, the highest quality of the manufacturing process and fabrics. “This collection simultaneously reflects an evolution – of the brand, and the men who wear it – and a continuation of both philosophy and identity“, reads the press release.

 

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