London Fashion Week, the FW18 collection
“Périphérique” is the name of the latest Hussein Chalayan‘s collection. Presented in London but referred to Paris banlieues, the Fall/Winter 2018 collection deals with the immigration and integration theme in the Parisian suburbs.
Dealing with the most impoverished areas in Paris surroundings, he focuses on the social tensions that derive from unintegrated immigrant communities. “Outside of Paris, for me, is the ultimate epitome of what could happen if you allow a segregated society. So I use that as my core and for me that’s the heart of the collection.”, Chalayan said after the show.
The Cypriot designer imagines a journey from the center of Paris to the outskirts. He tries to transfer the concept into fashion: the result is a suggestive collection made of sculptural silhouettes and interesting cutting details. As an example, irregular gathering of fabric is draped and underpinned in order to give shape to a whirl of fluid fabric, as a round trip in and out of the city. Yet, Chalayan is a master in making the complicated look marvellously simple.
Hybrids are another topic: panels are removed or merged together, therefore coats and dresses seem melted together in flowing shapes, as well as capes and coats result into cocoon-like volumes.
Alluding instead to the aerial map of suburban Paris, some abstract prints cover the surface of fluid dresses, matched with a layer of delicate silk organza and faux-fur shawls.
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