The Fall 2018 collection from Milan

The newest addition to the Fondazione Prada complex – the newly constructed tower – served as the new venue for the latest Prada‘s fashion shows. Some of the topics of the collection were already spread in the menswear collection Miuccia Prada presented in january: the bucket hats with matching oversize vests made in practical nylon for a utilitarian purpose. Yet, the womenswear Fall/Winter 2018 collection acquires a more profound significance for Miuccia, that goes paradoxically beyond fashion.

The night and the safety concerns related to women living in towns are the core of the collection:

“I liked the idea of the night, the night as the place for adventure, the place of freedom and its limits,” she said during a preshow press conference. “Women, on the one hand, have to be strong and protected, aggressive and powerful. On the other side, you bring with you all the characteristics of femininity, sometimes carried on from our past and how you’ve been raised.”

“I always say, if you want to go out at night naked you should be able to. It’s part of the individual freedom”, she added, before acknowledging that belief and reality can at times collide. “The other night, at my age, I walked a bit and I felt insecure, so I can imagine a young girl who wants to go out [dressed] sexy, why not? Probably she feels insecure.”

Her collection assumes then an intellectual and sociopolitical fashion perspective. The Prada woman doesn’t go quietly into the night: the feminine garments as fine flowery dresses, skirts and coats are somehow covered with protective-looking nylon puffed corsetry, high-tech fabrics and serious sportiness clothing that derives from masculine wardrobe. Ladylike shapes are paired with rubber boots and elastic-tied heels; heavy tweeds are layered over lighweight chiffons. Neutral backgrounds are enlightened by neon colours that define the colour scheme of the night.

As Bridget Foley described it perfectly, “the clothes were as complicated and compelling as the overall message – to what degree one decoded it.”

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