Find the entire collection Ermenegildo Zegna, Fall/Winter 2021/2022, Milano

Find the entire collection Fendi, Fall/Winter 2021/2022, Milano

Find the entire collection Eleventy, Fall/Winter 2021/2022, Milano

Find the entire collection Kiton, Fall/Winter 2021/2022, Milano

Milan Men’s Fashion Week, in the principles of Ease and Comfort

If it is often a common thought that fashion can hardly affiliate with comfort, the ongoing Milan Menswear Fashion Week just begun seems to own all the premises to make us reconsider that thought.

Adaptability to the present times, with their relative challenges, is what drives fashion to greater evolution and progress, following the wave of the new needs that are constantly generated. We are assisting in an era in which lifestyle boundaries are blurring, and contamination between different clothing styles – outdoor/indoor, formal/informal – is inevitable. Comfort seems to have become the common denominator of that fashion which is trying so hard to recover from the pandemic crisis, putting pressure on creative energy and innovative intervention.

At the helm of Ermenegildo Zegna, Alessandro Sartori moves away from utter formality, but not from a thoughtful sartorial approach: he blends the public and the private, the personal space and the public space, where lounging, living and working collide often in one single activity. The result is a practical and versatile collection, entitled (RE)set, conceived to re-tailor the modern man. The volumes are being lightened and deprived of lining and shoulder pads, to emphasize instead the softness of the luxury textiles. The secret ingredient here is the engineering jersey made of cashmere, the very basis of the collection, which confers fluidity and adaptability. Previously considered formality staples, the classic garments are now re-thought throughout hybrid lenses: jackets gain levity just like shirts, wrapping coats convey the same belted generosity of a robe de chambre; the wide track pants instill a sense of ease and comfort as well as the soft slippers made with the same matching fabric in jersey.

It is difficult not to fall in love as well with Silvia Venturini Fendi’s aptitude for riding the Zeitgeist wave. What is normal today? is the question that echoes through Silvia’s voice that becomes the show’s soundtrack. “Normal” is the ability to adapt; maybe something that answers our needs before we can even realize what these needs are? It is certain that the condition of contemporary life requires elasticity and constant multitasking: that’s why Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2021/2022 blends practical tools, extreme comfort and elegance at the same time, all elements which come to meet halfway our everyday life needs. The classic business suiting is being interpreted anew through the comfort-leisure codes, and transformed in unrestricted ribbed knits, soft quilted nylon bermuda shorts, puffed fur winter coats and shearling pieces.

Reflective elegance is instead the expression of a new idea of masculinity conceived by Marco Baldassari, founder and creative director of Eleventy. He puts into play a successful blend of aesthetics and functionality, where the most precious masculine textiles – such as wool-cashmere blends and corduroy, all chosen upon the criterion of lightness – meet sportiness and practicality, to reach a final comfort that is perfect for indoor and smart working activities. The “double” fabrics – doubled internally with fine knits -, products of 14 hours of expert hand-craftswomen of Eleventy and Italian know-how, are instead employed for the outerwear pieces, conferring preciousness and care for any outdoor occasion.

Neapolitan tailoring brand Kiton –founded in 1968 by Ciro Paone- adopts instead the inverse process: it starts not from the suit, but from the leisure, to subsequently upgrade it through the tailoring expertise. It’s all about handcrafting skills and savoir-faire which involves the love of making, resulting into that “extra” quality that is easily perceivable by the final client through touch and feel, not through empty storytelling. Only precious textiles are employed: from the vicuña fabric – a signature of Kiton’s excellence for handmade suiting – to the matching big checks, houndsteeth, herringbones and small woven motifs. When workplaces and relaxation locations melt into each other, blurring the lines between “executive looks” and home-wear, similarly the suiting pieces become separates that rarely keep the suit’s original entirety, within the concept of new informal normality.

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