The many sides of a denim experiment. A photo gallery

No fabric has ever been so much infused with meaning in the same way as the denim cloth does: chastely androgynous, or rather alluringly body-shaping; time resistant yet never out of fashion. A symbol of democracy, as well as – au contraire – the emblem of rebellion and nonconformity. It can be concurrently the homogenization language – as a result of globalization – which belongs to an undifferentiated society (socially, professionally and sexually) and, alternatively, a blank page suited to diversification ad infinitum through any kind of creative intervention aimed at expressing one’s personality (rips, bleaching, stone-washing, etc).

Better known in its Blue Jeans version, the denim cloth is embedded with contradictions, as it ended up being at the center of attention throughout so many different historical backgrounds. Everyone may easily remember the American miners’ overalls (read: Levi’s!), or the casual jeans embodying the myth of the American dream during WWII. And what about the sensual hot jeans pants in the ’50s and ’80s, emblem of sexual emancipation? Or again, the rebel Woodstock generation used to wear Blue Jeans, as well as the Anti-American youth during the Vietnam war. Still, denim history could be discussed endlessly.

Today denim is the informal cloth par excellence, as it is now decontextualized, therefore deprived of any cultural reference. Actually, it is the only clothing piece that can assume different significance depending on the social and geographical context, and the same goes for every single brand’s perspective.

Examining the Denim pieces from the SS23 Menswear collections is further evidence of denim’s undoubtedly-rapid change in style, use, and interpretation at the present time. Take a look!

Y/PROJECT

Reaching that rather disturbing off-key by creating unpredictable silhouettes has always been the main aim at Y/Project since its foundation: illusional effects were created through fake denim printed on the garments, while denim volumes were abstractly layered and draped around the body. Hybrid pieces are the result: among them, an evening gown made of tiny, shredded bleached denim pieces assembled together.

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NATASHA ZINKO

A similar approach is significantly adopted by Ukrainian-born Natasha Zinko, even though here it acquires more dramatic and daring tones, as through fashion, she expresses the dreary effects and consequences of the war in Ukraine. Raw cuts, ripped denim, and a rather punk attitude prevail, counterbalanced by a sense of optimism and hope for survival conveyed by the native garments “shredded and lovingly repieced together”.

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MARINE SERRE

If in the previously mentioned designers the denim reassembly is a conceptual thing, chez Marine Serre it acquires the character of material upcycling for sustainable purposes. Besides other recycled fibers employed for her new collection -such as old T-shirts and leather items-, patched waste denim was assembled within perfectly-tailored jackets, coats and dresses, concretizing her main brand values: inclusive, ethical, positive, human.

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FENDI
Aiming at conferring men’s wardrobe an informal character for the sake of simplicity, Fendi works on a tailoring collection conceived through casual elements, such as denim itself, a fabric Silvia Venturini Fendi defines as the emblem of freedom across fashion history. Here, it is translated onto sophisticated coats and blazers made of denim strips or fringed denim paired with more technical features – such as the ultrasound bonded seamless internal pockets on a coat -, alongside the house-specialty trompe l’oeil in the working of leather.

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HED MAYNER
Exploring Hed Mayner’s SS23 collection is diving into an impressive proportion exploration, designed expressly to strip away notions of gender and status: the back of parkas and jackets are here cut away to create two-dimensional looks, that are both remarkably oversize and statement makers.

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Some other denim looks from the SS23 collections: Amiri, Bianca Saunders, Casablanca, Egonlab, JW Anderson, MSGM, Namacheko, Reese Cooper.