Paris Men’s Fashion Week

Getting a glimpse into Jonathan Anderson‘s creative mind can make us bump into something that’s not so much predictable. He definitely pushes the boundaries of what masculine style means today, through a playful and experimental approach that has become his trademark in the fashion panorama: the Irish designer starts from the classic tuxedo and submits it to brave cut-outs and deconstructions aplenty, for his cohesive Spring/Summer 2020 collection, happily combining the winning formula of menswear and resortwear together.

Sleeves opened up to shape sculptural wings; trench coats were deprived of their sleeves and converted into fringy scarves; a sleeve of a jacket was sewed to the body of another. Abstract paneling calls into question the canonical tailoring. The same destructive-deconstructive process is also applied to the thick multicolored knitwear pieces: sliced-cut, they’re assembled in patchworks or torn and left free to drop down the body; diagonal stripes of tassels interrupt the woolen blocks.

It’s indeed a silhouette exercise – more than a seasonal fashion/style research -, where the preexisting is destroyed in favor of wrongness and inaccuracy: that’s where modernity stands. There’s a subtle subversion in the raw, refound artisanal detailing that is here highlighted. It’s the imperfection factor that becomes the authenticity clue, a sign of uniqueness.
The oversized volumes are left loose and slouchy, allowing the series of looks to perfectly exemplify the genderless design.

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