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Iris Van Herpen – Haute Couture Paris – Fall 2018

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The Couture Fall 2018 collection from Paris

Organic and inorganic, biology and technology; they are interwoven in an imperfect relationship, a powerful yet fragile connection from where Iris Van Herpen drew inspiration for her Couture Fall 2018 collection.

Syntopia is the result of a collaboration between the talented Dutch fashion designer, the scientist Etienne Jules Marey and the artistic duo Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta of Studio Drift, whose artworks translate natural processes into delicate sculptures created with dynamic and natural effects.

The bird flight is the theme that stands at center stage, as the former dancer – Iris – was fascinated by the transformation within movement. She wanted her fashion show to represent all the kinetic steps of flying in echoing forms, like a photoshoot in slow motion. Translated into fashion, this idea became a construction method based on the Inside a second technique: thousands of organza layers were lasercut and heatbonded with mylar and cotton, in order to create a time-lapse motion effect that reproduces the chronophotographic lines of a bird flight.

Van Herpen looked closely at the draping of a garment through chronophotography. “By slowing down time into split seconds I started breaking down the usual draping of fabric, to then layer the milli-seconds all slightly shifted, like the layering of a bird’s feather.”explained the designer.
She also used primitive and artisanal weaving techniques, both with the most innovative digitally designed weaving to conceive intricate coats in laser-cut wool woven with leather that literally cut into time.

For the occasion, Studio Drift created a spatial kinetic installation In 20 steps, with 20 glass wings of a bird that interact with the models while they move over the runway.

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