From Paris, Sarah Burton’s Fall 2018 collection

A “hyper-real world… [where] a sense of pride, joy and optimism prevails”: that’s what Sarah Burton alludes to when talking about her latest collection conceived for Alexander McQueen. The woman’s complexities are put on the foreground; each aspect of her personality – such as strength, fragility, instinct, perseverance – is flowing one into the other, finding the perfect comparison in the butterfly (that is also an important symbol for the house of McQueen).

The metamorphosis through which a cocoon converts into a beautiful lepidoptera is expressed through the craftsmanship heritage of the house: sudden cuts on perfectly tailored blazers, leaving room to voluminous and lightweight fabrics as silk and lace, it looks like a cocoon caught in the process of peeling away. Dresses peculiarities are the eye-catching butterflies’ wings prints, favoured by gentle textures that evoke the inside of the cocoon, or maybe the soft hair of the butterfly bodice in a velvet fil coupé jacquard coat.

Sarah Burton brings a totally feminine perspective into the McQueen’s style, grounding the Fall 2018 collection in the watershed cultural moment for women’s rights. She talks about a “paradise found rather than lost”: it’s the repossession of femininity, a quality that never clashes against feminist achievements, neither it is a feature that can be defined and controlled by men.

All the femininity aspects are also expressed through an inclusive parade of multiethnic models and multi-shaped bodies.

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